by Anne M. Beggs
Ashford Castle in Cong, County Mayo, Ireland, is a dream destination. From its thirteenth-century fortress origins through a lavish Victorian baronial estate, it is now a Red Carnation property offering luxury and history-focused experiences. Activities range from lake tours to skeet shooting, archery, falconry, golf, cycling, tennis, and an equestrian center. Unable to fit in everything, I concentrated on my first love: riding and the dog walk. Oh, my archer’s heart quivered, but I’d left my bow and arrows at home.
Irish history encompasses centuries of tragedy. Recorded invasions by Vikings, Anglo-Normans, and English brought subjugation, exploitation, death, and exile. Ireland today is a busy, active culture and economy, especially when compared to the painful events of the past.
I write adventure romance and family saga, Dahlquin, set in 13th century Connacht, Ireland. One of my families is Ashbury—purely fictional from my imagination—before I settled on Ireland as my books’ location. Friends reading Archer’s Grace asked if I’d misspelled Ashford, since there was such a place right where my fictional Ashbury castle was.
Thus, I set out along Ashford/Ashbury. My husband called ahead, and I was greeted with a congratulatory card for my second book and upcoming 50th Anniversary, plus a Happy 70th Birthday greeting. This was both an author’s pilgrimage and a celebration.
The history of Ashford Castle is long and detailed, but here is a brief timeline. The Castle of Cong was built and ruled for some 350 years by the Anglo-Norman De Burgos family after they defeated the O’Connors of Connacht. After a fierce 1589 battle, Ashford passed to Sir Richard Bingham, Lord President of Connacht, creating a fortified enclave. In 1715, the Browne family acquired Ashford estate and added a French-style château. The double-headed eagles remain visible on the roof.
Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness purchased Ashford in 1852 and expanded the estate to 26,000 acres, building new roads, planting thousands of trees, and adding two large Victorian-style extensions. In 1868, Sir Guinness bequeathed Ashford to his son, Lord Ardilaun, a garden enthusiast who oversaw the development of extensive new woodlands and more. The castle moved into the Iveagh Trust in 1915, as Ireland and Europe faced the onset of the First World War. Noel Huggard leased the Castle in 1939, transforming it into a first-class hotel just as Europe descended into World War II. In 1951, while filming The Quiet Man with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, the film’s stars stayed in the hotel. Between 1970 and 1985 the castle changed ownership, then again in 2013 when The Red Carnation Hotel Collection acquired it, establishing one of the world’s premier historic castle hotels.
My experience proved why. The service was phenomenal, gracious, and genuinely welcoming. Maybe the staff were concerned about a solo traveler, because I was met with smiles and attention at every turn. This introverted writer thrives in alone time, but I found an excellent balance of solitude and social engagement as I spoke up and met people, stepping out of my comfort zone on this adventure. Ashford Castle brought together an international cast of interesting people, from Slovenia to Australia. Travel is about meeting people and experiencing a location on a personal level.
As I strolled the magnificent grounds with their variety of gardens, flowers, trees, and views, I felt compelled to climb the 1880s stone walls. From there I envisioned the thirteenth-century siege from my books: an assaulting force beyond the walls, bolts and arrows filling the sky, siege engines threatening. Ashford must have had a fortified gatehouse with murder holes to defend it. I am in a dual timeline story — in the present beholding exquisite, manicured foliage and flowers in reds, yellows, and rare blue, then visualizing the muddy ground, men and horses, tents, food stores, everything unharvested trodden down. Today it is tranquil, a guest’s ideal holiday, with fresh air, bird song, and occasional murmurs and laughter. In my book, I smell smoke and waste, and the sky is dark with both; wildlife has fled. Curses, commands, and movement overwhelm the senses. Castles were built purely for war, every aspect designed to rain fighting, carnage, and death upon besiegers.
Do not miss delightful Cong Village (watch The Quiet Man before you go, and Cong will be even more familiar). It is just minutes away from Ashford on foot, by bike, or by car. The medieval abbey merits exploration as the burial place of Rory O’Connor, last High King of Ireland. Before there were monks in Cong Abbey, there were people living there, evidenced by tombs, cairns, and burial grounds. Buy the guidebook at the Irish History Book Store, browse the other Irish history books, then soak in the long, rich history of this quaint village.
Along with the history and castle, I came to ride and scheduled a tour on an adorable Connemara Pony named Puffin. I was indulged with photos of myself and my books taken from ponyback.
Each time it rained, we found shelter beneath the forest canopy, then emerged to greet the sun. We got chilled and found warmth with the sun, then Storm Éowyn, the storm of the century, left its scar upon Ashford as it had everywhere in Connacht. Six months after the storm, downed trees, gaping holes, and blocked pathways still littered the landscape. My knowledgeable guide pointed out the decorated Christmas tree. No one knows who hung the ornaments, yet it survived the storm. This enhanced the magic and wonder of Ireland. It validated my research and gave me a sense of home, of Dahlquist, my characters’ world.
Food and dining are celebrations. I savored two breakfasts in the George V Dining Room, where the full buffet constitutes a meal in itself. The menu offers tempting selections. I would not have thought to pair whiskey and porridge. Yet the combination of simple, hearty porridge and smooth, warm whiskey was rich and satisfying.
Stanley’s Restaurant offers fine dining in an informal, intimate setting with amazing, friendly service. I indulged in lamb tostadas with avocado and zesty corn salad.
If you haven’t tried Irish beef, the steak at the Dungeon was excellent, paired with a Spanish wine. Every dining experience was enhanced by attentive, friendly staff. Some were local, some from abroad, and all were charming.
Afternoon tea in the Connaught Room must have been exquisite, but I had other priorities. If you visit, please share a photo and tell me what I missed.
There is not a corner or wall left unadorned. Each room, hall, and stairway invites visitors to linger and savor the artwork, meticulous details, and rich history of Ashford. There have been several owners and many celebrity guests.
Employees take pride in their work and contribute to keeping Ashford Castle’s grounds healthy and beautiful. Smiles, knowledge, and kindness give this pampering resort a magical feel. It comes down to people.
The dog walk is humorous, educational, a good hike, and includes dogs—all before breakfast! Ashford provides Wellies if you didn’t bring your own rain or mud boots. The excursion winds through fairy woodlands dotted with ferns and mushrooms. The castle views are stunning, along with laughs and tail wagging. With wolfhounds in my fiction, what a delight to imagine I was with Beast and Dragon.
The Inglenook Room holds a lavish display of the original 1,000-piece custom-made silver-gilt dinner service, formally owned by Washington Augustus Roebling, the man who recreated the Brooklyn Bridge. It also contains the most impressive fireplace in the castle. The original great hearth of the medieval castle is now a cozy tea nook, the only remaining vestige of the once mighty fortress.
Decorated in blue and gold, the Drawing Room, with stunning views of Lough Corrib, serves the traditional purpose of lounges in grand hotels: spaces to meet, visit, read, and journal. On so many past travels, I wondered at the magic of quiet repose in such a room. Reading, journaling, and enjoying the moment. Back then, we had small children to chase or challenging activities to tackle. Now I’m savoring my coffee. I reflect on the kind people on this trip, my family, past trips, and this moment, experiencing the dawn of a new day as history unfolds. It’s sublime.
A selection of photos provided by Anne M. Beggs
Anne M. Beggs is a writing, riding grandma and award-winning historical fiction author with published articles on mounted archery and horsemanship. Anne says she researched the Middle Ages well into middle age and beyond. Her books, Archer’s Grace and By Arrow and Sword, launch the Dahlquin family saga, a thirteenth-century Irish historical series. She has had short stories published in Paper Lantern Writers anthologies. She and her husband of 50 years manage Equisance, a horse boarding ranch in Watsonville, California, where they live.
Where to Stay in Ashford, United Kingdom
For a stay in Ashford itself, the town offers traditional Irish hotels and bed-and-breakfasts within walking distance of the castle. Most visitors choose properties on the main street or nearby side roads to stay close to local shops, pubs, and restaurants. These smaller establishments tend to have genuine character, with staff who know the area well and can point you to less crowded historical sites in County Mayo.
Ashford Castle is the obvious choice if you want to stay directly on the castle grounds. The property occupies the actual fortress and offers luxury accommodations overlooking Lough Corrib. Rooms range from period castle bedrooms to modern suites in newer wings. This option works well for special occasions or if you want to experience the castle’s interior without leaving the property.
If you prefer modest pricing, consider the guesthouses scattered through the village. These family-run properties typically cost half or less than castle hotels and feel more authentic to how locals live. Many sit within five to ten minutes’ walk of the main historical sites, close enough to reach on foot but far enough to escape tourist crowds after hours.
The nearby town of Cong, just a few kilometers away, offers additional lodging options including small hotels and rental cottages. Cong has its own historical character as a monastic site and offers a quieter base from which to explore the region. If you’re interested in hiking or boating on Lough Corrib, staying in Cong or a countryside lodge near Ashford gives you easier access to outdoor activities while keeping the castle within a short drive.
Recommended Reading
FICTION
- Ireland by Frank Delaney — A sweeping tale that reads like a love letter to the Irish soul, this novel follows a wandering storyteller who spins the myths, rebellions, and legends of Ireland into one captivating narrative. A lyrical journey across centuries—and one boy’s life.
- The Irish Princess by Elizabeth Chadwick– Set in the 12th century, this richly detailed novel follows Aoife MacMurrough, daughter of the King of Leinster, whose marriage to a Norman lord reshapes the course of Irish history. Political intrigue and personal courage entwine in this historical page-turner.
- By Arrow and Sword: Book Two by Anne M. Beggs —A compelling blend of medieval adventure and historical fidelity, this second volume in Beggs’ series continues the story of Irish resistance and resilience in a time of Norman aggression and tribal warfare.
- The Dublin Murder Squad Series by Tana French —While modern in setting, French’s atmospheric mysteries tap into Dublin’s layered past—its secrets, buried traumas, and the way history clings to walls. Begin with In the Woods for a psychological twist on an old Celtic haunt.
NON-FICTION
- Cong Abbey: A Short History and Guided Tour by Robert Scott —This slim yet illuminating guide offers a deep dive into one of Ireland’s most evocative monastic ruins, detailing its architectural flourishes and turbulent ecclesiastical past. A must-read before walking its cloistered grounds.
- How the Irish Saved Civilization by Thomas Cahill —With elegance and wit, Cahill reveals how Irish monks and scribes preserved the foundational texts of Western thought during Europe’s Dark Ages. A fascinating ode to the intellectual guardians of history’s most precarious moment.
Links
Ashford Castle Breakfast: https://ashfordcastle.com/dining-and-drinks/breakfast
Cong History, Mayo Ireland Official Guide
