Imagine what it was like for someone of peasant birth in the medieval world to fall seriously ill or injured beyond what the local herbal healer could treat. You had no treatment and were likely marked for death, often alone if the illness was contagious. Come in, The Plague.

Nicholas Rolin and his wife Guigone de Salins witnessed suffering among the people on their lands and in 1443 built the Hospices de Beaune, the first hospital to care for the ill and poor, operating under the approval of Pope Eugene IV with Catholic nuns and clergy, as a compassionate response to the Hundred Years War’s wounded, brigands’ pillaging, plague, and illness and aging; Rolin, enriched as chancellor to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy and architect of his success, recognized this as a difference he could make.

Still Seeing Patients!

Today, that hospital, which first admitted patients in 1452, still stands and continues serving elderly people in the region with wellness care nearly 600 years later, though now in a modern building. But the original structure, with its distinctive glazed tile roof of red, brown, yellow, and green interlacing designs unique to Burgundy, is now a museum. Stroll through and see the well that brought water to the sick room, the cavernous hospital hall where meals were served in the middle, the curtained cubicles where nursing nuns attended their charges (two per bed!), and the chapel designed to allow the bedridden to attend Mass. Originally in the chapel and now displayed elsewhere in the museum is a world-renowned Rogier van der Weyden polyptych altarpiece The Last Judgement. You can also see the medical and healing tools used during that era.

By the way, as a tribute to his wife, who worked tirelessly to support the hospital, Rolin had “Seulle Estoile” (my only star) monogrammed on the floor tiling, referring to his wife, Guigone de Salins. She’s buried in the Chapel.

Where to Stay in Beaune, France

Recommended Reading

Here’s some medieval and Burgundian-era reading for you.

• Medieval Medicine: The Art of Healing, from Head to Toe by Luke E. Demaitre: A comprehensive exploration of how medical knowledge was practiced and understood in the medieval world, from common ailments to complex surgeries.
• Medieval and Early Renaissance Medicine by Nancy G. Siraisi: A scholarly yet accessible study of how ancient medical traditions evolved during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, highlighting key figures and texts.
• Medieval Medicine: A Reader (Readings in Medieval Civilizations and Cultures) edited by Faith Wallis : A well-curated anthology of primary sources that reveals how medieval people thought about the body, disease, and healing.
• The Black Death by Philip Ziegler: A compelling narrative of one of history’s most devastating pandemics, offering a detailed look at its spread, impact, and the societal responses of the time.
• The Maiden of All Our Desires by Peter Manseau: A richly imagined historical novel centered on a community of nuns and priests tending the ill during the time of the plague. Both spiritual and sensuous, it captures the human drama of an era gripped by fear and faith.
• Philip the Good: The Apogee of Burgundy by Richard Vaughan: A definitive biography of one of the most powerful dukes of Burgundy, exploring his court, culture, and political ambition at the height of Burgundian influence.
• Cursed Kings: The Hundred Years War, Volume 4 by Jonathan Sumption: A deeply researched account of the late medieval struggle between England and France, featuring Burgundy’s complex role in shaping European power dynamics.
• The King Without a Kingdom by Maurice Druon: The seventh book in The Accursed Kings series, this historical novel dramatizes the fall of the Capetian dynasty and the rise of the Valois, set against the backdrop of Burgundian intrigue and ambition.
• Insight Guides: France: A beautifully illustrated guide offering historical context, regional highlights, and cultural insights,ideal for understanding where landmarks like the Hospices de Beaune fit into France’s storied past.

Tours to Consider

• Private Guided Tour of Beaune: Explore the Heart of Burgundy
• Guided tour of Beaune with your professional guide