You probably know that Monaco is a sovereign principality, the second smallest country in the world, with only Vatican smaller. But what you might not know is how the ruling Grimaldi family acquired it back in 1297.

So it seems that this rock jutting out into the Mediterranean Sea was coveted by many as a strategic defensive position: the Greeks, the Italian Ligurians, the Holy Roman Emperor, the Genoese, the French, the Spanish, and the Sardinians. It’s not very big, the small jutting peninsula, plus 80 square miles of beach and mountainous coastline stretching just under three miles.

But one Genoese family saw it as their path to power. While Monaco was controlled by the Italian city-state of Genoa, which had built a castle on the rock, one ousted Genoese family plotted revenge. In 1297, Grimaldi family founding member Francesco Grimaldi, known as Malizia “The Malicious One” or “The Cunning One,” led a group of men disguised as Franciscan monks into the fortress and captured the castle! They fought to keep Monaco, but by 1419 had become undisputed rulers. In 1612, Honoré II crowned himself Prince of Monaco, and today, Albert II is the most recent in a long line of Grimaldi princes to be head of state, his father being Rainier III, the Prince who married the Hollywood Princess Grace Kelly.

With little land and no natural resources, Monaco struggled financially until Prince Florestan I authorized the Le Grand Monte Carlo Casino, which opened in 1858. Monaco attracted both visiting gamblers and newly wealthy residents, drawn by favorable tax rates and private banking. Today the Odeon Tower penthouse, the world’s most expensive apartment, will cost you close to $500M. If you’d like a 3-bedroom on a lower floor, it’s around $20M.

So Monaco (governed as 10 “wards,” Monte Carlo being one) evolved into two primary sectors: the upper portion on the rock and the lower section surrounding the harbor, with buildings stacked densely atop one another. It’s truly astonishing to stand on an upper viewpoint and gaze down at an extraordinary mass of high-rises still climbing skyward. With so little space in Monaco, builders had only one direction to go: skyward, or reclaim pieces of the ocean bed. Construction cranes are everywhere around the site. But then you wonder: how do people get around? You can walk, of course, since it’s such a small area, though very hilly, but look closer and you’ll see that nearly all the traffic is routed underground in a hugely confusing series of tunnels—keep in mind, this is where they hold the Monaco Grand Prix!

Let’s start your visit on the rock. You can approach along beautifully appointed streets lined with elegant mansions and stunning ocean views. This is where the old monied Monegasques planted their roots. Here you will find the lovely Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, where Grace Kelly and Rainier III were married and are now buried in the Grimaldi family vault (marked on the floor). Nearby stands the most architecturally charming police station I have ever seen. This area is Monaco Ville, the old city.

From there, a series of small streets with ancient buildings, cafes and shopping leads to the Place du Palais, fronting the palace that is the official residence of the Prince and Princess of Monaco. This massive edifice that replaced the fortress was built in the late 16th century and was refashioned in the style of Versailles in the late 18th century. Every day at 11:55 a.m., you can watch the guard change, and if you’re very lucky, you might also glimpse a royal emerging to a waiting car for a spin around town or heading off to the airport—then it’s time to head down the hill. There’s a very good hop-on-hop-off bus, or you can walk down the steep path and admire the stunning views. At sea level, you can stroll around the harbor lined with some of the world’s most expensive yachts, wander the cavernous streets carved by skyscrapers, or visit the 19^th century Beaux Arts casino. Monaco fascinates with its pocket parks, sparkling beaches, exclusive shopping arcades, people-watching, exotic cars, and the ingenuity of residents adapted to close-quarters living.

Where to Stay in Monaco, Monaco

Monaco’s accommodations range from ultra-luxury hotels like the Hotel de Paris and Fairmont Monte Carlo overlooking the harbor and casino, to smaller three-star properties in the old town neighborhoods. Budget travelers should plan accordingly; even modest rooms command premium prices due to the principality’s tiny size and high demand. Early booking during off-season months (November through March) can yield better rates than peak summer.

The Monte Carlo district offers the most prestigious stays, with five-star properties clustered around the casino and harbor area. This neighborhood puts you within walking distance of main attractions and restaurants, though you’ll trade quieter evenings and lower room rates for the convenience. If you prefer quieter surroundings, Fontvieille to the west has newer hotels and a residential feel, with slightly lower prices and easy access by short walk or local buses.

For those watching expenses, smaller hotels and guest accommodations in the Condamine harbor area and old town streets cost less than waterfront properties. These locations sit on Monaco’s hillside terrain, so expect stairs and steep streets, but you’ll still find yourself minutes from the main sights. Many travelers rent small apartments through vacation rental platforms to reduce costs for stays of three nights or longer, an alternative to hotels.

Book your room well in advance if visiting during the Monaco Grand Prix in May or other major events, as availability disappears months ahead and prices spike sharply. Even modest hotels fill completely during those periods. The Christmas and Easter seasons also draw crowds, so advance planning helps secure both availability and reasonable rates year-round.

Recommended Reading

Here’s some Monaco reading for you.

For your reading pleasure

• Rebecca by Daphne du Maurier: A gothic masterpiece filled with suspense, obsession, and identity. Though not set in Monaco, its brooding atmosphere and European elegance make it a timeless companion to Riviera-themed reads.
• Meet Me in Monaco by Hazel Gaynor: A romantic, fragrant love story set during the royal wedding of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier. It beautifully weaves history, perfume, and paparazzi into a tale of fate and second chances.
• Monaco: A Novel by Eric Robert Morse: Set in the rarefied air of Monaco’s elite, this novel explores ambition, deceit, and the true cost of wealth in a place where image is everything.
• Prodigals of Monte Carlo by E. Phillips Oppenheim: A turn-of-the-century novel about luxury, leisure, and idle European aristocrats living out their days in the golden light of Monte Carlo.
• Jewelled Path by Rosalind Laker: A sweeping historical romance that follows a young designer from England to the glittering courts and casinos of Europe, including a stop in Monaco’s glamorous society.
• The Perfume Collector by Kathleen Tessaro: This dual-timeline story spans from 1920s Monte Carlo to 1950s Paris, unraveling a mysterious inheritance and the secrets held within a bottle of scent.
• A Ghost in Monte Carlo by Barbara Cartland: A young woman is drawn into a world of intrigue and romance as she enters the glittering high society of Monte Carlo under her aunt’s mysterious instructions.
• Mission to Monte Carlo by Barbara Cartland: More romance and adventure in the Riviera from Cartland, this time with espionage, dashing heroes, and midnight schemes in a luxurious setting.

Here are some spy novels and thrillers:

• Casino Royale by Ian Fleming: James Bond’s first mission is set in the fictional Royale-les-Eaux, a stand-in for Monte Carlo, where he plays a deadly game of baccarat against a Soviet agent. Glamorous, dangerous, iconic.
• Loser Takes All by Graham Greene: A sharp novella set in Monte Carlo about a modest man who comes to the Riviera and stumbles into both luck and disaster. Satirical and deeply human.
• I Kill by Giorgio Faletti: A dark, fast-paced thriller set in Monaco where a serial killer broadcasts chilling messages over the radio. A psychological page-turner with an unforgettable setting.

Monaco in Real Life: Non-Fiction Gems

• Secrets of the Seven Smallest States of Europe by Thomas M. Eccardt: A quirky and insightful guide to Europe’s microstates, with fascinating details on how Monaco balances wealth, power, and independence.
• Palace: My Life in the Royal Family of Monaco by Christian Louis de Massy: A memoir by Grace Kelly’s nephew offering a candid look into the private lives, family tensions, and scandals of Monaco’s royal family.
• The Grace Kelly Years: Princess of Monaco by Frédéric Mitterrand: A lavishly illustrated tribute to Grace Kelly’s transformation from Hollywood actress to global icon and princess.
• The Royal House of Monaco: Dynasty of Glamour, Tragedy and Scandal by John Glatt: A dramatic retelling of the Grimaldi family’s history, filled with royalty, romance, and high society scandal.
• My Book of Flowers by Grace Kelly: A gentle, personal collection from Princess Grace herself, blending her love of flowers with musings on beauty, nature, and life in Monaco.
• The Man Who Broke the Bank at Monte Carlo by Robin Quinn: The riveting true story of Charles Deville Wells, the gambler who beat the odds at Monte Carlo’s casino, and became a symbol of mystery and fraud.
• Insight Guides: Nice, Cannes & Monte Carlo: A beautifully curated travel guide full of photography, history, and practical insights to help you explore the principality’s culture, neighborhoods, and iconic landmarks.

Tours to Consider

• Secrets of Monaco: Exclusive Private Walking Tour
• Monaco Hop on Hop Off Sightseeing Bus Tour
• Monaco & Monte Carlo Tour – F1, Grace Kelly & Royal History