Vincent Van Gogh sought refuge from hectic Parisian life in a place that was warmer, brighter, sunnier, and quieter. He found it in Arles, France and its brilliantly colorful surrounding countryside, beginning in February 1888.

And boy, did he find inspiration, creating more than 300 paintings and drawings here, including some of his most revered: The Night Cafe, The Yellow Room, Starry Night Over the Rhone, and L’Arlésienne! He even invited Paul Gauguin to join him, but they had a falling out. It was, sadly, also in Arles that madness and depression increasingly assailed the artist, leading to the famous incident where Van Gogh cut off his ear.

But Van Gogh was certainly not the first drawn to the charms of Arles, a town situated in the Camargue wetlands just downstream from two branches of the Rhône River. Arles was among the most influential cities of ancient Rome. Its fortunes rose when it backed Julius Caesar against Pompey, who was supported by Arles’ rival town Massalia (now Marseille). Massalia declined as Arles prospered, aided by a Roman canal to the Mediterranean built in 104 AD that facilitated troop movement and trade. Arles was established as a colony for Roman Legion veterans and served as headquarters for the emperors’ military campaigns across Europe by the 4th Century. At its peak, Arles had 75,000 to 100,000 inhabitants. I’ll tell you more about Roman settlement shortly.

Arles was also a major nexus for Christian Visigoths who swept out the Romans, followed in the Middle Ages by Saracens and Vikings that raided consistently. Eventually, the town came under French rule and became a prominent center of Catholicism in what was then the Provence region.

So a visit to Arles begins at the beginning. The city features several beautifully preserved Roman structures. The first is a full-size Roman Arena so well preserved that it stands as one of only four Roman Arenas still hosting performances and live events. This two-tiered Arles Amphitheatre once held 20,000 spectators cheering charioteers and gladiators. Today you can see bullfighting, plays, and concerts. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Interestingly, after Rome fell, the town shrank so drastically that its entire population sheltered inside the fortified Arena, which towers protected against raiding parties.

Just across the street is The Roman Theatre of Arles, a first-century venue built under Caesar Augustus that could seat 8,000. It remains in use today. The stage area, orchestra section, seating rooms and two columns survive. The Venus of Arles, a famous Roman marble statue, was found in pieces at the theatre in 1651.

Also still visible are a Roman Necropolis (burial site), aqueduct, mill just outside the city, the public bath house in town, and the 4^th century red granite Roman Obelisk standing at the center of the Place de la République.

The Place de la République is the heart of Arles’ old town, another UNESCO site. It’s anchored by the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall), a masterpiece of classical architecture, and the Basilica of Saint-Trophime, a beautiful Romanesque church whose intricate façade carvings and adjacent cloister showcase stunning stonework. On certain Sundays, holidays, and weddings, handsome young people in traditional costume gather on the church steps for long-held rituals and courtship.

You can stroll through the streets of old town Arles, enjoying the shops and cafes housed in 17^th and 18th century buildings. You can take a walking tour of the Van Gogh sites. Among them is the Espace Van Gogh, a 16^th century hospital where Van Gogh was treated and later admitted as a long-term patient for mental illness; the site of the “Yellow House,” where he lived; and the Place du Forum, where Van Gogh painted the famous “Café de la Place du Forum.

But drive a short way out of town and you’ll see the Langlois Bridge, a double-beam drawbridge over the Bouc Canal that Van Gogh painted in five different works in 1888. He also left drawings of the bridge.

In Arles, there is much to enjoy, especially the people and city that captivated the post-impressionists.

Where to Stay in Arles, France

Arles has neighborhood options to fit any budget and preference. The Old Town around the Roman arena and cathedral offers walkable access to major sites, though rooms here tend toward higher prices and smaller spaces. The area immediately south of Boulevard des Lices strikes a good balance: quieter than the arena district, still central enough for exploring on foot, and with accommodations ranging from modest hotels to converted historic buildings.

For budget travelers, smaller family-run hotels and guesthouses with reasonable rates line the streets parallel to Rue de la Cavalerie. These neighborhoods sit just beyond the main tourist core yet remain within a ten-minute walk of major attractions. Many rooms in this zone are modest rather than luxurious, keeping costs down without sacrificing access to the city’s best features.

If you prefer modern amenities, several chain hotels operate near the station on the eastern edge of town. These lack the character of the old quarter, but offer predictable comfort and parking. The trade-off is a fifteen-minute walk or short bus ride to the arena and cathedral, though the walk itself winds through residential Arles worth seeing.

Book accommodations several weeks in advance for May through September travel. Summer rooms fill quickly, driving prices up accordingly. Winter and early spring offer significantly better availability and rates, while keeping the weather mild enough for comfortable city walks and museum visits.

Recommended Reading

Fiction

• Lust for Life: A Novel of Vincent Van Gogh by Irving Stone
  A sweeping, emotionally charged portrait of Van Gogh’s passionate and tormented life.
• Sunflowers by Sheramy Bundrick
  A love story set in Arles, reimagining Van Gogh’s final years through the eyes of a local woman.
• Painting the Wind by Michele Dionetti
  A lyrical, introspective novel tracing the invisible threads between art, madness, and devotion.
• Eagle in the Snow: General Maximus and Rome’s Last Stand by Wallace Breem
  A haunting Roman-era tale of loyalty, empire, and honor, perfectly echoing Arles’ ancient past.

Non-Fiction

• The Rock of Arles by Richard Klein
  A rich historical study of Arles in the Roman era, where empires rose, and stones still speak.
• The Letters of Vincent Van Gogh by Vincent Van Gogh
  Van Gogh’s own words, intimate, vivid, and revealing, charting his artistic and emotional journey.
• Van Gogh: The Complete Paintings by Ingo F. Walther
  A lushly illustrated volume capturing the full scope of his genius, including his prolific Arles period.
• Vincent and Theo: The Van Gogh Brothers by Deborah Heiligman
  A moving dual biography that illuminates the bond between two brothers whose love shaped art history.
• The Yellow House: Van Gogh, Gauguin, and Nine Turbulent Weeks in Arles by Martin Gayford
  An art historian’s beautifully written account of the volatile, visionary weeks Van Gogh shared with Gauguin.
• Vincent’s Arles: As It Is and as It Was by Linda Seidel
  A guide to the city through Van Gogh’s eyes, blending art, architecture, and local history.

Tours to Consider

• Half Day Private Guided Tour of Arles
• Hello Arles: Private 2-Hour Intro City Walk with Local Guide