Today, you can sit on a small balcony jutting out over Lucerne’s River Reuss and the Old Town Promenade below, viewing a panorama that is one of the most photographed in the world. To your left, a stunning covered bridge adorned with flowers, punctuated at a turn by a circular pointed stone tower. And directly across the small river from the balcony is the picturesque two-towered Jesuit Church of St. Leodegar (dating to 1633) with people sitting on its steps, their toes in the water. The Church is flanked by some of the most handsome fully occupied 15th-17th century buildings throughout Switzerland.
Where is this balcony? The lovely and elegant Hotel Des Balances, one of the most welcoming historic hostelries in Europe. This six-story, 56-room gem sports a unique mural on its town-facing side, which is painted in faded golds, reds and green in the style of German renaissance artist Hans Holbein. Scrolls, soldiers, angles, garland, scenes of nobles dining and more astonish the observer and greet the guest. They speak to the building’s long service to the Lucerne community and its visitors.
The Des Balances dates all the way back to 1190. It has served as a town hall, guild house and inn. The first inn was situated close to the 12th Century meat and fish market. The name of the hotel speaks to its proximity to the marketplace (des (of), balances (scales). Lucerne itself benefited from being one of the first four of the independent Swiss Confederacy that broke away from the Habsburg empire, to prosper on its own—with this building at the center of the city’s politics and economy.
The current hotel was opened in 1836. More than 100 years ago the nobility met for tea in the art nouveau lounges. Princess Luise of Baden and the Dutch Queen Wilhelmine were among them. Celebrities from across Europe, such as playwright George Bernard Shaw, also stayed here on their visits to Central Switzerland, a must stop on the Grand European Tour.
Today’s 4-star hotel offers beautifully appointed small, but comfortable rooms, many with balconies on the river, snuggly robes, and excellent service. There is also a Romantic Suite with a hot tub, and extra little touches for a love-struck couple. The bar and lounge lead to an indoor and terrace restaurant fronting the river. Dining in a relaxed environment, you can select French Mediterranean cuisine, created by award-winning chefs. Breakfast can be included in your package with tasty buffet options and hot breakfast cooked to order. But to my amazement one buffet offering stands out –a full chocolate fondue fountain with marshmallows—FOR BREAKFAST! Not dinner dessert. You can start your day fueled by Swiss Chocolate. What could be better than that!
Website: www.balances.ch
This Article was featured in the Spring 2025 issue of The Historic Traveler Magazine.
Where to Stay in Lucerne, Switzerland
Lucerne’s Old Town sits on the lake’s northern shore, where medieval streets wind past historic buildings and the famous Chapel Bridge. Hotels in this area put you within walking distance of major sights, though rooms tend to be pricier and smaller than elsewhere in the city. The Hotel des Balances itself occupies a prime spot overlooking the Reuss River, giving you morning views of water and distant mountains from many rooms. If the des Balances is booked, look for other properties along Unter der Egg or nearby Rathausgasse, where you’ll find similar lake views and authentic old-town character.
The lake-facing neighborhoods beyond the Old Town offer a calmer experience with good access to attractions. Lakeside areas like those near Nationalquai have larger hotels and more amenities, though you’ll need to walk or take a short bus ride to reach the medieval center. These zones work well if you prefer more space and quieter evenings after exploring downtown.
For budget-conscious travelers, guesthouses and smaller hotels in the residential areas south and west of the center provide clean, simple rooms at lower rates. These neighborhoods lack the historical charm of the Old Town but have decent public transit connections and local restaurants serving Lucerne residents rather than tourists. You’ll save significantly on lodging and can walk or bus to the sights in 10 to 15 minutes.
Consider your priorities when choosing where to stay. The Old Town offers history and convenience at a premium price, the lakeside middle ground splits the difference between atmosphere and cost, and residential areas give you the best value if you don’t mind a slightly longer commute to the main sights.
